
I have been visiting Morocco for work and pleasure for over twenty years, and it is still a go-to place for colour and pattern inspiration, sourcing rugs, and, of course, a bit of winter sun. If you have read much of this blog, you might have come across my mini-guide to Essaouira, another fantastic winter holiday destination for those who love wind and kite surfing.
Marrakech is totally doable for three nights or a long weekend. Living here in Dorset, we are lucky to have an Easyjet flight, but Gatwick and Heathrow also have a number of options.
Before my son was born, I was always more keen to stay in a riad in the Medina, mainly for location - ease of shopping, the sights and evenings out, but since our son has been on several trips, we opted to stay where there is more space and swimming pools.
There three hotels of note which are a short(ish) taxi ride from the main square, the Jemaa el-Fnaa and two which are in the Medina itself.
The Beldi Country Club & HotelSet in 14 hectares of rose gardens, event spaces, bedrooms (some with a bath in the private garden), suites and at least 8 swimming pools, pétanque, padel and tennis courts, this is an oasis of calm compared with Marrakech centre. There is also a great spa, kid's activities, in-house pottery, rug and glassware shop to die for...
It does get busy with Parisians and Londoners but outside of school holidays, it is relaxed and chic. Their Kasbah Beldi, in the foothills of the Atlas mountains, can be quieter and is more remote.
A little further out, more like 30-45 mins out Marrakech is Farasha Farmhouse, set in olive groves with views of the Atlas mountains.
Farasha Farmhouse
Also about 30 mins outside the Medina walls is Berber Lodge, a Berber-inspired boutique hotel.
The lodge consists of 9 individually styled Berber lodges scattered around a private property creating an exclusive and understated luxury stay. There is a lovely communal sitting room and bar and eating outside is under the olive trees.
There is a plethora of riads to choose from in Marrakech itself, but two of note are the Rosemary and El Fenn.
An intimate riad in one of the oldest neighbourhoods of Marrakech, carefully designed by LRNCE to celebrate local craftsmanship, art, and design. This is essentially adults-only but kids from 14 years old will be accommodated.
When it comes to shopping and sites, the souks within the Medina walls are a rabbit warren of covered walkways and small squares often all selling a variation of the same thing - like the small basket square, the spice square or the glassware market.
One has to be discerning and willing to haggle as the first price will always be over-inflated. Out in the new town of Marrakech - Gueliz has many of the high chains but there are some smaller shops worth looking at including Michèle Baconnier and Moro Marrakech.
Back in the Medina, Mustafa Baloui has developed over the years and is a treasure trove of fantastic items from lighting, rugs, ceramics to leather and woven goods. For rugs, it is possible to find rugs on every corner but the time spent looking through and haggling can take an age. There is one rug retailer who constantly has an epic array of rugs from Beni Ourain, kilims, Azilal and Boucherouite is Lahandira. Be willing thought to take your time in their air-conditioned showroom, but their selection is second to none. Liberty of London and The Conran Shop are known to buy from Lahandira.
It is without question that times must be taking to visit YSL's Majorelle Gardens.
Medersa Ben Youssef Marrakech is a historic Islamic school located in the heart of Marrakech, Morocco. Built in the 14th century, this madrasa was once the largest Islamic school in North Africa and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
When it comes to eating, it can definitely be hit or miss, but there are some newer restaurants which are gaining international recognition. Le Jardin Restaurant and Terrasses des Épices are both lovely spots, one in the bright sunshine on the roof and one in a tranquil covered garden. Plus 61 and Nomad are both newer style restaurants and the menu is both a mix of Moroccan and European dishes. If you are afraid to try the night market in the main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa, then there are two stalls which stood out in quality and skill, stall 14 for fish and 31 for offal. We have eaten here numerous times with no adverse reactions!
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